Where you are
The head of the valley
New Theed sits in the pines at Harwan, where the Dal valley narrows and the Zabarwan closes in behind it. Dachigam starts up the road, the Mughal gardens are down it, and the lake is the last thing you see before the light goes.
Within reach
Four things to do, in order of effort
Harwan Garden & the canal
The old Mughal garden at the head of the valley, and the canal path that runs down from the reservoir under the chinars. It is the easiest beautiful walk near the cottage and the one we send people on first, usually before breakfast has quite worn off.
Dachigam National Park
The last refuge of the hangul, the Kashmir stag, and home to the black bears that gave this cottage its name. Entry needs a permit from the Wildlife Department — tell us a day ahead and we will help you arrange it and point you at the right gate.
Shalimar & Nishat Bagh
The two great Mughal gardens on the eastern shore of the lake, terraced up towards the Zabarwan with the water running down through the middle of them. Go early. By noon in summer they belong to the tour buses.
Dal Lake at dusk
A shikara out from the Nishat side as the light goes, past the floating gardens and back with the ridge turning black behind you. We will tell you what a fair fare is before you get in, which saves the argument at the other end.
The year up here
The same valley, four times over
People ask which month is best. The honest answer is that they are all good for different reasons — so here is what each one actually feels like.
Spring
March – MayAlmond blossom, then the tulip garden below the Zabarwan for its few weeks. Mild days and cold nights — the kind that still want a warm room.
Summer
June – AugustOur busiest season. Deep shade under the pines and mid-twenties here while the plains are at forty-five.
Autumn
September – NovemberThe chinars turn, the walnuts come down, and the light is the clearest it gets all year. Our own favourite time to be here.
Winter
December – FebruaryChillai Kalan from the twenty-first of December. Snow, a kangri in your lap, and the reason the cottage was built this shape.
Getting here
Up the lake, then into the pines
The road is metalled the whole way and comfortable in a normal car for most of the year. In heavy snow we arrange a pickup from the main road at cost — just tell us your arrival time and we will send a live word on the conditions.
- Srinagar Airport1 hrRound the lake, longer through the city
- Lal Chowk35 minAlong the Boulevard, past Nishat
- Gulmarg2 hr 15 minWorth a day on its own
- Jammu8 hrNH44 over the Banihal pass
Plan the days
Tell us what you want from the trip
Walkers, families with a pram, photographers chasing the light — we will tell you which days suit, what the roads are like right now, and what the cottage costs while you are here.
Or call +91 7006 183094 — We answer 8:00 am – 11:00 pm · Caretaker on site overnight